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Many people dream of sailing around the world in a small boat – and many more who have no desire whatever to actually go to sea enjoy the vicarious pleasures of a voyage through other people’s books.

Thankfully this has created a steady demand for books about nautical adventures that run the full spectrum from solo circumnavigations of Antarctica to the voyages of the Hiscocks or Smeetons who were among the pioneers of the modern era of small boat voyaging.

And I’m always curious to read of someone else’s challenges, triumphs and tribulations. A few weeks ago, at the secondhand book stall on the old wharf in Sept Iles, Quebec, I picked up “Taking a Little Sailing Ship – A View of the World from a Thirty-Foot Schooner” by Klaus Gehrig. The book was published in 1991 by Nimbus Publishing.

Gehrig’s account is an easy to read account of the main events of the voyage with his partner Marie-Jose. He has a dry sense of humour and while fully aware of the adventures and insights such an undertaking can give, he does not talk up the tale too much into a story of daring-do nor try to convert with his own sense of epiphany. Instead, he writes of the day to day, the routine and the exciting with knowledge and humour.

“There were times at sea when we looked at the sky and the horizon and thought our view encompassed everything. But we were only seeing the world from the deck of a little sailing ship,” writes Gehrig.

It’s unfortunate, for both practical and armchair sailors, that there’s nothing in the book about the 30-foot schooner, her design, layout or stores. It’s a curious omission, given that anyone who picks up the book would almost certainly want to know these details. From a single photo I’m left wondering if his anonymous steel boat was actually a Tahitiana, the same design as my own “Kuan Yin”.

Gehrig writes that at the start of the voyage he wasn’t sure how to put a reef in a sail. Is he trying to give the impression of being a bumbling amateur, far removed from the competent sea-salt? However, as he spent two years building the boat himself, the notion that he really set out from Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada, without basic sailing skills seems far-fetched.

Nevertheless, he’s a good narrator. Like meeting someone on another boat in an anchorage and inviting them aboard for a drink and story-telling, I spent a pleasant few hours curled up on the berth in “Kuan Yin” enjoying his stories.

My thanks and fair winds to you, wherever you are today.

Savouring a small personal achievement.

With good reason, rounding Cape Horn at the southern tip of South America is still regarded as a major accomplishment for any sailor. Storms (one category above mere gales!) can rage for days with waves reaching 80 – 100 feet high. Numerous ships and countless sailors have lost their lives in this place where the winds that screech around the southern half of the planet unimpeded by land masses must funnel between South America and Antarctica.

Another cape – Cape Whittle on the Lower North Shore of the Gulf of St. Lawrence in Canada – is not in any way famous, except very locally; it is not buffeted by the storms of folklore and is not even that much to look at. Yet, in a very modest but deeply personal and satisfying sense, for me rounding Cape Whittle a few days ago marks a small accomplishment on a long and gradual learning curve. Continue Reading »

Of all the days of the year designated for celebrating something – Mother’s Day, Valentine’s Day, etc, surely we should also be celebrating some of the intangibles that make life worth living and celebrating as human beings.  The spirit of adventure is one of these great virtues – and by adventure I mean much more than travel in exotic realms.  I mean more the courage, belief, energy and resilience required for any journey – of the feet or the heart.

And if there’s any day of the year on which the spirit of adventure should be celebrated it is surely August 30th – the day Sir Ernest Shakleton returned to rescue his men marooned on Elephant Island in Antarctica after almost two years isolated and stranded on the ice after their ship sank.  “We intend to keep August 30th as a festival for the rest of our lives” wrote one of the party.  Their’s was not an adventure of conquest over peoples nor to convert anyone nor for more trade with exotic realms.  After the Endurance was crushed in the ice and eventually sank, these 28 men lived on the sea ice and made two extraordinary voyages in small open boats across the roughest ocean in the world.  (see my earlier posts, search Shackleton) They survived due to their skills and moral courage – what their leader, Sir Ernest Shackleton was describing when he said, “optimism is true moral courage”.

So, in recognition of the extraordinary courage and resilience of all adventurers, I propose we celebrate August 30th as a day to celebrate past achievements and to encourage all people to live their dreams and never to give up their determination to live rich, fulfilled lives.

Every sailor has a destination or a crossing that marks for them both a challenge and, if they make it, an accomplishment.  While doing the Yachtmaster course in England two winters ago, it was crossing the English Channel.  Now, on my way east to Labrador, it was the 28-mile crossing of the St. Lawrence from Matane to Godbout.  The day started with a brisk westerly wind and no fog.  The day before even the quays of the Matane commercial harbour, where I was anchored, disappeared in thick fog.

Within an hour of heading north, the wind picked up, the seas started to build and I had a reef in the sail to ease the pressure on the sail.  On the radio the Coast Guard was giving a Gale warning for the region.  Continue Reading »

I’m still trying to get over my shock and disappointment to receive a big, new and extra bill from the marina in Rimouski almost two weeks after paying the bill, checking twice that everything was paid and leaving.  This extra billing has happened before at the marina (see below) but I’m trying not to let  it spoil my memories of the many months “Kuan Yin” and I stayed in the town.

I met some great people, received a lot of help, accomplished an enormous amount of projects on the boat and generally had a happy time.  Though I don’t speak more than a few words of French – but am always willing to trying to listen and to try to explain myself in French, I found people very very accommodating and more than willing to help whenever they could. Continue Reading »

When you hear the stunted, semi-grunting way many speak – and write! – these days, the language of a book such as The Elements of Style seems to come from a different planet.  What’s the point of clarifying the correct usage of “which’ and “that” when someone can’t utter a sentence that doesn’t have f**k in it?  And I am not being overly fussy.  My formal knowledge of grammar is as rudimentary as many people’s and I don’t worry much about rules – so long as I can make clear what it is I’m trying to communicate.  And I’d suggest that dumbing down the language does not make anyone more expressive or articulate.  Exactly the opposite.  Language is a wonderful achievement of humankind.  Words are the building blocks of society – there can’t be society if people can’t communicate.  To hear or to read someone using any language well can be sheer delight.  It’s the difference between  a maestro on the violin, an amateur player and a hacker.  If you want to improve your skills with language, it helps to have formal training, and William Shrunk Jr.’s classic book has served millions of people since it was first published in 1918. Continue Reading »

Why The Greater Depression Still Lies Ahead

By Michael Pento

July 01, 2010 “Forbes” — If policymakers do not understand the real cause of a problem, they will in all likelihood be unable to provide a genuine solution.

Messrs. Barack Obama, Benjamin Bernanke and Timothy Geithner do not understand the real cause of this debt crisis. They are politicians first and economists or students of the market second–if at all. Therefore, it is not wise to count on them to tell us when the Great Recession is over, or to provide a plan to prevent another one in the future.

The cause of the Great Depression in the 1930s, and the Great Recession beginning in 2007, was one and the same: an overleveraged economy. Excessive debt levels are the direct result of the central bank providing artificially low interest rates and of superfluous lending on the part of commercial banks. Continue Reading »

All’s well that ends well, to repeat Shakespeare.  After grinding off the paint and some fairing in about 40 patches all over the hull on both sides, the hull was tested with an ultrasound machine to test the thickness of steel.  The good news is that there were no problems at all! The less brilliant news is that it was not possible to get a very clear reading alon g the welds were the plates meet the steel framework.  However, there was not sign of thinness anywhere in the hull. Continue Reading »

Just minutes before covering the hull of Kuan Yin with three layers of anti-foul paint (to discourage barnacles and marine growth), I was making a last minute inspection when I discovered a small spot of rust that I hadn’t noticed before.  All the other spots I’d ground off and coated with two layers of special high-built steel primer paint.  The grinder was put away, the anti-foul was ready to apply.  It was the afternoon and a perfect day for getting this job done before the boat could go back in the water.

Through all the refitting of Kuan Yin over the last two summers, I’ve always tried to apply the highest standards that I’m capable of achieving.  Sloppy work always has to be redone and costs more in time and money in the end, in my experience.  But I have to admit I was tempted just to let this one little touch of rust go – paint over for another season and attack it next spring.

However, I got out the grinder, brought the power line and started to work.  Imagine my horror less than a couple of minutes later when I discovered a HOLE in the hull of my steel boat.  Half a screwdriver disappeared! Continue Reading »

Another “bulletproof” sailboat of dreams. This Tahitiana was built in 1984 and was listed for sale in Buddina, Queensland, Australia in January 2010. See the photo gallery. Continue Reading »

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