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It’s with considerable relief that I’ve received comments on my recent post Goodbye mother Ganges.  I long delayed even publishing the post because to some, who had seen a draft, it seemed unnecessarily pessimistic.  Who wants to hear a foreigner being critical of India’s headlong rush to consumerism?  However, in the end, I decided it was better to recheck the facts, rethink my conclusions, and if i still believed in what I was asserting, to “publish and be damned”.

So, I am very grateful to Shri Vijay Srinivas in Delhi who has responded with so much concern and agreement.  Although his comments are posted with the original essay, they are worth republishing here to give them more prominence.  I hope to be in direct contact with Shri Vijay and that we will be able to develop a conversation and take it forward.

“Dear Dennis,
I am a journalist and communications professional based in Delhi.

Thanks so much for such a wonderful report. I have passed it on to so many of my friends, who could not agree less (more) with what you have said about the Ganga.

Indeed, it is a metaphor for India. Our consumerist dream will not only kill the river but also the aspirations of the current and future generations. Better-off Indians like me and others are dragging everyone else down the road to the abyss. And we don’t feel guilty about it, because we are busy saving our careers, building our dream homes, buying the most fancy of gadgets and living up the American dream.

I wonder if there is a way to save this disaster from happening. If there is ever an opportunity to work with you on any of your projects, I would be keen to collaborate.

God bless,
Vijay”

I certainly wasn’t the first to write a book about Ganga Ma (Mother Ganges), the holy river which flows across northern India.  And I’m glad to see that I haven’t been the last. (Though I think I’m still the only foreigner to have walked the entire length of the river.)

Edmund Hilary took a jet boat up the river.  Eric Newby took a slow boat down the river (actually quite a lot of miles were accomplished in a chauffeur-driven car but that was omitted from the book).  And the English-born broadcaster and writer Julian Grandall Hollick (what a great name on the title page of a book!) published a new book about the river in 2007.  He didn’t go by boat or on foot, but moved swiftly from place to place at the speed of all journalists and with all the limitations and dangers of myopia that that entails.  How, Hollick wants to know, can Indians pollute Ganga yet at the same time worship her a goddess?  How to explain this paradox?  This is the lynch-pin of his book, “Ganga”. Continue Reading »

Unless more rain falls, India’s ambition of becoming a vast consumer society is an impossible dream from which the vast majority will be excluded because of water shortages.

In the headlong rush to become consumers, few people inside India or outside are asking whether it is even possible for more than one billion people to adopt such the profligate and wasteful lifestyle as people in the West.

And if it is not, an enormous opportunity is being lost to sustainably raise hundreds of millions of people out of poverty; instead, a wicked lie is being perpetrated against hundreds of millions of people so that just a few can become rich.

The river Ganges is one of the great rivers of the world – and it is lack of water, I believe, that will ultimately cripple the aspirations of all Indians to live decent, healthy and meaningful lives if India continues to pursues the failed model of endless consumerism.

Download complete report as PDF Goodbye Mother Ganges

25 years ago I completed a 2000-mile pilgrimage beside Ganga Ma by walking all the way from Gangha Sagar, in the Bay of Bengal, up the source at Gau Mukh, in the Himalayas.  (See my book A Walk Along the Ganges.)  I returned to India in the fall of 2008 keen to see how the country has changed and especially to see for myself the much-publicised development. What I found dismayed be profoundly. (Note: given the importance of the subject, I have included sources in endnotes.)

In little more than one generation, India’s most sacred river – Ganga Ma, Mother Ganges – will dry up, at least for part of every year. She will no longer be the “sur-sari” (divine flow of energy), the living entity and mother who bears away all troubles and pollutions and brings life wherever she flows. Instead, in the hot season, Ganga will become a series of stagnant pools or, at worst, a fetid sludge of industrial and domestic wastes. The river as she has been worshipped by millions of Hindus across India for thousands of years will be dead.

This is no alarmist hyperbole, but a reasonable prediction based on available facts and established trends. It is already happening to other great waterways of the world, such as the Indus, the Rio Grande, the Colorado, the Murray-Darling and the Yellow river. India is on the move. Expectations are sky high. Businesses are booming; the combination of a burgeoning consumer economy and a population set to reach almost two billion within 40 years[1] will create a thirst for water that cannot be slaked. ‘Water stress” is already happening in places all over India. Increasing shortages and conflict will be the inevitable results. As early as 2005, the World Bank was already describing India as “a country about to enter an era of severe water scarcity”[2].

My personal confirmation that something was dreadfully wrong with Ganga came when I stood on the north bank of the river near Mirzapur, a short distance upstream from the holy city of Varanasi. It was the end of the monsoon season in 2008 and Ganga Ma should have been brimful with water and fertile silt. Instead, I looked down from the high bank across a desolate scene of grey water flowing around sandbanks. The level of water should not have been so low until the start of the dry season in March. Why did the river have so little water? And if the river is so low now, what impact on water resources will the booming economy of India and transformation of society have in the face of a still rapidly increasing population? The answers are complex and discouraging. Continue Reading »

The skipper’s advice to others is, “Enjoy yourself, it’s later than you think.”  He bought ‘Irie” when she was derelict, restored her and sailed to the South Pacific – proof you don’t a fancy boat to get out there! Continue Reading »

I wrote recently about the amazing amount of our plastics now floating about in the oceans.  A new story by Victoria Gill of the BBC highlights the situation in the North Atlantic where researchers have found a massive garbage zone. The maximum density of plastic trash was 200,000 pieces per square kilometre!

The tiny pieces are especially dangerous to fish and birds that mistake these pellets for food. Continue Reading »

Technorati claim

claim number from technorati  UMA5SF4T99WW

If you haven’t already heard of the Alaska National Wildlife Reserve, at the north-west tip of North America, chances are very good that you will be hearing a lot about the Reserve from oil companies and politicians pushing to get the area opened up to drilling for oil.  But here’s a great new documentary about the last couple to live year round in a cabin in the Reserve. Continue Reading »

I’ve written before about the “Hermit Writings of S” and posted his script in its entirety on this site.  See here.

In order to bring his writings to a wider audience, I’m going to post extracts from the Hermit Writings according to various themes which he himself used as sub-titles.  They’re intended as bite-sized chunks that may be more easily digested. He writes well, argues simply and coherently and with a commonsense that is both engaging and intriguing.  Judge for yourself.

Little is know about the man who calls himself S.  He may be living, or have lived, in northern Canada, as there are references to the “huge horseshoe landscape curing around James Bay, the pre-Cambrian Great Canadian Shield, vast tangled forests sieved through the lakes and rivers”.

Time

“Why we need time, long long swaths of undisturbed time, thick impenetrable blankets of time that no one disturbs, why when we know the illusory nature of time and instantaneousness of enlightenment, why do we still need time? Continue Reading »

Where is she now?  Having read many of Eric Hiscock’s books about the voyages with his wife Susan around the world in Wanderer III, I was curious to know more about the boat and where she might be now.  The good news is that she’s been down in Antarctica and South Georgia Island (made famous by Sir Ernest Shackleton’s trek in 1917).  However, though I have not been able to confirm, I seem to recall that Wanderer III recently was damaged in a grounding.  If you can clarify please let me know.  Meanwhile, here’s the story and some usual photos of the famous 30-foot boat. Continue Reading »

Constant training and upgrading of skills is one of the ways to improve safety and enjoyment sailing. And there are plenty of places to learn about many aspects of sailing.  Obviously, the best place is out on the water. But often that’s not possible right now, or you want to bone up on something in order to practice when you do leave the dock.  An alternative is to watch free videos on YouTube.  There are some good ones – accurate, short and clear – and I’ll be reviewing a selection of them.  So if you’ve got 10 minutes or less, kick back and brush up your skills. Continue Reading »

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